What You Should Know About The Toxins In Beauty Products

Colorless, odorless plasticizers called phthalates (pronounced “THAL-ates”) are used extensively in cosmetics, personal care items and products that encounter plastics during manufacturing or packaging. Despite phthalates receiving labels as endocrine disruptors, reproductive toxicants and a probable human carcinogen, by groups like the European Commission and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), limiting exposure to the chemical compounds remains a challenging undertaking for consumers.

Commonly found in everyday beauty products, phthalates serve multiple purposes, from preventing cracking in nail polish to reducing stiffness in hair sprays. They help retain scent in fragrances and add flexibility to plastics.

In an effort to avoid plasticizers leeching into food, some consumers already avoid microwaving certain plastics. However, that precaution may not provide exhaustive protection, said Mahua Choudhury, PhD, associate professor of pharmaceutical sciences at the Texas A&M University Irma Lerma Rangel College of Pharmacy and co-director of the Texas A&M Health Center for Micro-encapsulation and Drug Delivery.

Choudhury said exposure also may occur through eating, drinking or breathing and through the skin. “People often believe plasticizers are hazardous when microwaving because they think the chemicals will transfer to their food. However, phthalates do not require heat to be released,” she said.

Phthalates can even cross the placenta during pregnancy, meaning they can reach a developing fetus. Once inside the body, phthalates can disrupt the endocrine system, which is responsible for regulating hormones that control everything from metabolism to growth.

“Recent studies published by Chemical Research in Toxicology focused on how phthalates influence metabolic and inflammatory processes,” Choudhury said. “Together, these findings highlight the complex ways phthalates disrupt critical biological pathways, furthering the concern about their role in metabolic disorders and inflammation.”

The European Commission and other regulatory bodies classify DBP and Di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP) as endocrine disruptors and reproductive toxicants. Prenatal exposure to these chemicals has been linked to altered male genital development, hormone imbalances in infants, reduced sperm quality in men and infertility in women. The EPA also has identified DEHP as a probable human carcinogen, raising uncertainty about the long-term health impacts of these phthalates.

Identifying phthalates in products

Several common phthalates appear in consumer products, including diethyl phthalate (DEP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), dimethyl phthalate (DMP) and isobutyl phthalate (DiBP). The Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) stance on these compounds is complex. Under the authority of the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA), the FDA requires an ingredient declaration on cosmetic products sold to consumers, which means you can tell if a product contains phthalates by reading the list of ingredients on its label.

“Products labeled clean or organic in the beauty section don’t automatically mean that you are free of all these adverse chemicals,” Choudhury said.

In 2010, the FDA conducted a survey of cosmetics that contained phthalates to track general trends in their use in cosmetics. However, cosmetic companies are not legally obligated to submit their formulations to the FDA, and regulations do not require them to disclose individual fragrance or flavor components or their specific ingredients.

How to avoid phthalates

Consumers can take several steps to minimize exposure to phthalates. Reading product labels carefully is essential, though phthalates often hide behind terms like “fragrance” or “parfum.” Some products may be explicitly labeled “phthalate-free,” and some companies have committed to avoiding these chemicals. Such precautious may be especially important for pregnant women and young children, who may be more vulnerable to the potential effects of these compounds.

A 2001 report released by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) showed elevated phthalate levels in women of childbearing age, yet the FDA maintains that available evidence doesn’t warrant regulatory action against phthalates in cosmetics. This stance contrasts with the European Commission’s position, which has classified some phthalates as endocrine disruptors. Ongoing research continues to investigate their health impacts.

“We are really vulnerable to phthalates as the effects can extend from the mother to the baby,” Choudhury said. “Additionally, race plays a role. Studies have shown that the African American population often uses specific hair and makeup products, many of which contain high levels of phthalates.”

Although the FDA considers some phthalates, such as DEP, safe in current cosmetic applications, consumers are responsible for making informed choices by carefully reviewing product ingredients. Avoiding phthalates can be a challenge, making consumer awareness crucial as regulatory bodies continue to evaluate phthalate safety based on ongoing research.