Read the Label: Glossier Balm Dotcom Reformulation

The iconic Glossier Balm Dotcom launched ten years ago, drawing a cult following. In 2023, Glossier opted to reformulate its cult classic lip balm to meet the needs of the vegan and cruelty-free market. The impact of this change could not have been predicted, given the rise in consumer demand for vegan and cruelty-free products. However, the brand’s highly dedicated fanbase flooded social media, demanding the company bring back the original formula. Users left overwhelmingly negative reviews on the Glossier website stating the new formula is “oily, not as long-lasting and not hydrating.” It was a classic case of “if it’s not broken, don’t fix it.” Following, we compare these formulations.

Ingredients: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Beeswax, Lanolin, Flavor, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, BHT, Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract, Red 40, Red 33.

Table of Contents

Glossier Balm Dotcom New Lip Balm Formula

Ingredients: Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Synthetic Wax, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Silica, Synthetic Beeswax, Behenyl Behenate, Silica Silylate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax/Candelilla Cera/Cire De Candelilla, Tocopheryl Acetate

Animal-derived Lanolin, Beeswax Replaced

The reformulation ingredients included replacements for lanolin and beeswax, both animal-derived ingredients. Lanolin, the protective coating on sheep’s wool, acts as an occlusive providing lip protection from excess water loss (transepidermal water loss) and softening and smoothing of the lips by replenishing the skin’s barrier. Beeswax, traditionally produced by honeybees, is a multifunctional ingredient acting as a natural plasticizer and structuring agent with occlusive properties. As a plasticizer, beeswax can provide a thick, creamy texture and consistency to products.

Together, the two ingredients work synergistically to create a rheological profile with softening, smoothing and protective properties that is difficult to replicate with alternatives:

a thick, waxy paste consistency
that melts at body temperature
and spreads smoothly
with high shine
yet provides just the right amount of stickiness and protection
to be long-lasting and hydrating to the lips.

That’s a tall order.

Non-animal Replacement Ingredients

Glossier sought to achieve a product that is as close as possible while maintaining vegan and cruelty-free claims by swapping out the animal-derived ingredients with a vegan alternative to lanolin, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, and synthetic beeswax.

bis-Diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is touted as a semi-solid vegan alternative to lanolin with emollient properties and excellent spreading capabilities and having a low melting point. Synthetic beeswax is meant to mimic traditional beeswax with similar or identical properties such as melting point and is highly regarded as a good swap for traditional beeswax if used at low quantities in the formula.

However, feedback stating the formula was “oily, not as long-lasting and not hydrating,” suggests the replacements were not equal swaps in the eyes of consumers.

Revert to the Original Balm Formula

In May 2024, the brand ultimately responded to outcries by Balm Dotcom fans by relaunching the original formulation — including lanolin, so fans can enjoy the original formulation that they know and love. This is a testament to Glossier’s dedication to listening to its consumer base, which has been a pillar of the brand reaching back as far as the founder’s blog, Into The Gloss, that launched in 2010.

Editor’s note: It also demonstrates the power of social media to inspire/direct product development.

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