Observing the beauty backstage at London Fashion Week for SS25, there is a vibe shift in the way that make-up artists, hairstylist and nail designers are approaching the beauty looks. The mood feels significantly more fearless, with expressive use of not only unexpected colour combinations but also in its design.
While there is always room for ‘no make-up make-up’ and there’s no denying the allure of a singular red lip against little else, it’s refreshing to see glam teams and fashion designers pushing the boundaries of what beauty on the runways can look like. Beauty has long been a tool for communicating ideas and stories, so why not maximise it on the catwalks?
A new generation of creative visionaries are leading the charge. Mata Mariélle, make-up artist and one of ELLE’s beauty trailblazers, took the reins at Ahluwalia with MAC, creating a light-reflecting ‘sunset lip’ in an homage to designer Priya Ahluwalia’s heritage.
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‘Her collection is all about Jamaica and India and the idea of being home. When we think about home, it doesn’t matter what time it is or where you are going, you come looking your best,’ shares Mariélle, who’s known for pairing ombre techniques and statement colours with polished skin.
Elsewhere at Sinead Gorey, make-up artist Aoife Cullen lent her offbeat touch to create a pick n’ mix range of beauty looks – from periwinkle eyeshadow with matching lashes to lips peppered with colourful sprinkles.
Over at Chopova Lowena, lead artist Lauren Reynolds eschewed uniform looks for a refreshing breadth of patterns in a myriad of tones. Whether its neon rainbow eyes or tiny stars in highlighter shades of pink and yellow, Reynolds and her team marched to the beat of their own drum – just like the design duo Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons.
‘I always like to start with the idea of a character and build from there, and Emma and Laura are the same. We had a huge document on the go with hundreds of references, from gymnasts to flappers to vintage saloon girls and girly decorative face painting, with all the swirls and gems. That’s where those colourful crystals came from,’ Reynolds tells me. Whilst in the past, glam teams often work to a designer’s strict brief, real magic can come from a collaborative approach.
‘It really was inspiring to work with Emma and Laura. They are so free and clever with their ideas. They create such an open environment where you feel you can just try things out.’
Hair served plenty of talking points, too. At Simone Rocha, revered hairstylist Cyndia Harvey tapped into the realm of play and performance, inspired by the collection. ‘It combines the essence of couture but with that naïve playfulness, the signature of a Simone Rocha collection,’ she shares backstage while spritzing generous amounts of Bumble & Bumble Thickening Dryspun Texture Spray to achieve a refined, but lived-in finish complete with bejewelled barettes.
Things take on shades of blue at Chet Lo, courtesy of hairstylist Anna Cofone and Authentic Beauty Concept. ‘I’m working in wefts of hair inspired by fabric swatches that Chet sent over from the collection. The textured strands were made custom to match the looks,’ Cofone tells ELLE backstage.
Sixties-style bouffant were given a modern twist by way of textured finishes at Bora Aksu by Syd Hayes while Tolu Coker paired its beehives (created by Toni & Guy’s Efi Davies) with graphic swooshes of white eyeshadow.
Not one to take a backseat, nails have taken over the London runways by storm. Hand-sewn crystal tassels graced models hands, designed by nail artist Ama Quashie who also created the ‘petal drop’ manicures at Nensi Dojaka.
Back at Chopova Lowena, manicurist Ella Vivii looked to ‘cutlery and keys’ to design a catalogue of seven designs with 24 variations. It’s a visual feast, to say the least.
Whether it’s Naomi Campbell’s bouffant at Vivienne Westwood AW2003 or the surreal-looking models at Alexander McQueen’s SS2001 show, the city is home to iconic looks that subvert the beauty ideals – all achieved through the collective effort of fashion designers and beauty creatives. The British beauty scene is home to visionary industry legends that continue to inspire the new generation, from Pat McGrath and Val Garland to Sam McKnight.
Reynolds agrees, saying: ‘Thomas De Kluyver [who did the make-up at Simone Rocha] was my mentor; he’s a great inspiration to me.
‘He taught me the importance of research and developing your ideas, and everything he does, even when it’s wild, has this beauty and exquisiteness. It can be fearless, but it’s very intentional and people always look beautiful.’
While admittedly, I’m one for a just bit of blush and lipstick on a daily basis, it’s important to see the imaginative side of beauty being represented on the runways. Aside from serving much needed escapism, it gives people everywhere a license to play and experiment with beauty, to understand that make-up, hair and nails can go beyond the realms of ‘pretty’ and tell a new story – one that’s entirely your own, free from any prescriptive rules. The fresh cohort of backstage creatives are re-thinking beauty at fashion week, and I cannot wait to see what the future holds.
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