Department stores and the 1960s fashion revolution

By the Johnson County Museum

The Johnson County Museum’s special exhibit, “Free to Be… A 1960s Fashion Revolution,” vividly showcases how women’s clothing underwent a remarkable transformation during this pivotal decade. As the 1960s unfolded, department stores played a central role in a sweeping fashion revolution. Spurred by suburbanization, these stores moved from downtown hubs to burgeoning suburbs. This move helped to democratize fashion, marking a significant departure from the conformity that defined the 1950s. The increasing popularity of ready-made clothing had profound implications for women’s fashion. Read on to learn how these changes reshaped the landscape of style.

A time of conformity

The 1950s might be best remembered for a strong sense of conformity. During the early years of the Cold War, Americans valued security, which deeply influenced society and culture. Following social norms and looking respectable were very important, including in women’s fashion and the American department store experience. Women mostly wore a single fashionable look throughout the decade, inspired by French designer Christian Dior’s 1947 “New Look.” This style emphasized a feminine figure with rounded shoulders, cinched waist, and full skirt. Whether they were wearing a simple dress for daily chores, something casual for a game of bridge with friends, or a fancy evening gown, most women stuck to this popular style. Department stores sold mass-produced clothes that followed the accepted rules of style, color, shape, and fit, catering to different budgets and tastes.

Fashion for all?

In the 1950s, Kansas City’s Garment District was renowned for its department stores, yet it remained a segregated space, barring the city’s Black population from shopping and dining in its establishments. In 1955, a coalition of Black female professionals known as the Twin Citians collaborated with the local NAACP chapter and took action against this discriminatory practice. Initially met with resistance, the Twin Citians later established the Community Committee for Social Action (CCSA) in 1957 to organize their efforts for equality.

CCSA members picketed and eventually boycotted five major department stores in downtown Kansas City: Macy’s; the Jones Store; Kline’s; Peck’s; and Emery, Bird, Thayer. The movement gained momentum, drawing support from white activists, local pastors, and the United Church Women organization during the 1958 holiday season. Three months later, CCSA won its first major victory when the management of Macy’s, Kline’s, and Peck’s announced their stores would desegregate dining facilities. When this change proceeded without incident, the Jones Store and Emery, Bird, Thayer did the same in May 1959.

This victory was part of a broader nationwide movement towards integration, with downtown department stores across the country experiencing a surge in Black patronage, sometimes accounting for up to 50% of their sales. However, these advances were short lived.

Suburb bound

During the late 1950s and 60s, department stores began expanding into the suburbs, marking a significant shift in shopping patterns in Johnson County. The Mission Shopping Center led the way when it opened in July 1956, with a massive Macy’s store as its anchor. Soon after, the Jones Store opened in Prairie Village Shopping Center in 1958, followed by Sears and Jones Store in Metcalf South in 1967. Oak Park Mall, completed by 1974 with several anchor stores, further solidified suburban residents’ access to major retailers without needing to travel to Kansas City’s Garment District.

This shift meant Johnson County residents could now conveniently visit branch locations of popular department stores, often located in master-planned shopping centers or commercial districts with ample parking. By the end of the 60s, the impact was noticeable: two of the stores CCSA had picketed were closed, and none are open in downtown Kansas City today.

During this era, many shoppers considered national or local department stores like Macy’s, JCPenney, Sears, Harzfeld’s, and Halls authorities on style. These stores offered clothing at different levels of fashion and price points. Some had exclusive deals with designers to create small batches or lines of ready-made clothing for the store, while others worked with lesser-known designers who produced clothing in the style of the big Paris and New York fashion houses – often at significantly reduced price points.

Individuality in style

In contrast to the 1950s, the 1960s is remembered as a time of individuality. For many Americans, it was a time of experimentation and of broadening perspectives. This played out in women’s fashion, where choices in color, pattern, shape, and length of clothing became increasingly diverse. Personal style reflected more than just the wearer’s preferences, it increasingly reflected their values and beliefs.

Department stores remained pivotal in providing accessible fashion choices, but as the decade progressed, even the eclectic, self-expressive hippie style found its way onto store racks, often packaged as “hippie-chic” by designers.

By the late 1960s, both men and women were wearing clothes that made them feel comfortable and reflected who they were at that time. There wasn’t just one style that defined women or the country anymore. Fashion wasn’t controlled by just a few designers either. Even today, fashion continues to change with politics, technology, and personal preferences, but the idea of expressing individuality through clothing, which became popular in the 1960s, still influences fashion trends.

You can explore even more about 1960s women’s fashion by visiting the Johnson County Museum’s special exhibit, “Free to Be… A 1960s Fashion Revolution.” This exhibit was created in partnership with the Johnson County Community College’s Fashion Merchandizing and Design department and their historic fashion collection. It is included in the price of regular museum admission and open for viewing Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Exhibit closes Jan. 11, 2025. The Johnson County Museum offers quarterly Free Days, including Saturday, Sept. 14 and Wednesday, Nov. 27. You can also visit the museum for free by using the Sunflower Summer app through Aug. 13. Find out more and plan your visit at JCPRD.com/museum!